I realised recently that I substitute the word “group” to describe a restaurant brand with multiple outposts that I admire, so as not to smear it with the rancid stench of chain corporatism.īut, in truth, the eight-strong Dishoom, which I like very much, is just a chain by any other name. Even the very word “chain” makes people twitch. We are, of course, required to venerate the independent over the mass-produced and cookie-cutter, and we do. Schnitzel Forever, a small restaurant in London’s Stoke Newington, is the cornerstone of a blossoming high street chain with many outposts across the country. Schnitzel Forever, 119 Stoke Newington Church Street, London N16 0UD (020 7419 0022).
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